A Short Guide to Grafton, WV

Small towns are some of my favorite places to visit! Some, like Grafton, used to be a bit bigger than they are today, while others have always been picturesque little towns. Because I love day-trips, small towns make for perfect destinations, and while I absolutely want to share these places, they don’t always need a full multi-thousand word post. So, for that reason, I am making these “Short Guides” that introduce some of my favorite small towns and highlight a few things to do there!

For this post, we’re visiting Grafton, West Virginia, which is probably most famous as the birthplace of Anna Jarvis, who founded Mother’s Day. Although Grafton is no longer in its heyday as a railroad town, it still has a lot to offer and it one of my favorite day-trips (or sometimes just a dinner-trip)! If you’re looking for a fun little adventure in North Central West Virginia, Grafton is a worth a visit!

Grafton History

The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was what made Grafton into a prosperous 19th century town. It’s even named after B&O engineer, John Grafton. In 1852, when the B&O reached Grafton, it was working to build the first railroad through the Appalachian mountains, which posed a problem for transportation. In the Civil War, control of the railroad became a major concern.

The B&O Railroad was important for moving troops and supplies, so control mattered to many people. In May 1861, a skirmish between the local Grafton Guards (Union) and the Letcher’s Guard (Confederate) resulted in the death of Thornsberry Bailey Brown, who is considered the first casualty of the Civil War. Following this event, Confederate forces were pushed south on Route 250 by Generals Kelley and McClellan to Philippi, WV, which claims the first land battle of the Civil War. This road, also called the Wheeling-Staunton Pike, connected two of Virginia’s largest cities and was known as the “Back Door to the South.” It was a strategic route for Union soldiers to invade the south – but also for Confederates to invade the north.

In West Virginia, it is interesting to learn about the Civil War loyalties of different people. On the whole, Grafton was a Union town, but many people had family or friends in the Confederacy. Ann Jarvis (mother of Anna Jarvis, the founder of Mother’s Day) provided medical treatment to soldiers from both sides in her house.

Following the war, a “Flower Strewing Day” was held in Grafton to remember those who died in the Civil War. This became Memorial Day, and Grafton’s celebrations are the longest running in the country – 150 years as of 2017. And that, of course, is not the only holiday Grafton is famous for. In 1908, the first Mother’s Day service was held at Andrews Methodist Episcopal Church at the insistence of Anna Jarvis. Mother’s Day is now a holiday celebrated internationally to recognize the important role that mothers have, and the church where this first service was held is now the International Mother’s Day Shrine.

During the New Deal era, the Tygart Dam was the most successful project in Grafton, though the WPA also began work on a new hospital, which was not actually completed until 1945. The 20th century also saw the decline of both the railroad and the closure of two major factories in Grafton: The Carr China Plant and Hazel Atlas Glass Plant. The women of Grafton held a parade that gained national attention to bring jobs to the community and were successful in bringing a plastic baby toys manufacturer to town. However, when the railroad transferred many of its jobs to Florida in the 1980s, it was a painful loss for the town.

As of the 2010 Census, Grafton’s population hovered around 5,000. Like many industry towns, especially in West Virginia, the changes of the 20th century led to a decline from which it is difficult to bounce back. In driving through downtown today, you can still see many historic buildings and can imagine what the town might have looked like 100 years ago, even as some of these fall into disrepair. And while you could focus just on that golden age of railroads, there’s more to any town than just its past, and Grafton still has a lot to offer to anyone who decides to stop by.

Tygart Lake State Park

On my initial “research” day-trip for this blog, I spent at least two hours driving around Tygart Lake State Park and taking pictures. I didn’t actually do much other than that – the water-park wasn’t open for the summer yet, I didn’t have a boat to take on the lake, and I didn’t really have the time (or inclination) to figure out a hiking path. But even just driving around, sitting by the water, and eating at the lodge made for a pretty great state park visit!

Tygart Lake was designated as a state park in 1938 when it was constructed by the Army Corps of Engineers after the building of the nearby dam. Since then, the park and surrounding area have been a popular recreation site. The lake itself stretches for 10 miles and covers 1,750 acres, only a fraction of which is in the actual state park.

When you visit the park, you find yourself on the land-locked version of “island time.” Life is laid-back and easy. There’s a blue sky and ripples on the water, and worries start to disappear. Although the flowers were not fully in bloom and the water-park wasn’t open on my visits, it was nice to be here in this shoulder season when there were very few people, and the weather was warm but not hot.

On a visit to Tygart Lake in the summer, you can do a little bit of everything from boating at the marina to hiking in the mountains. You can bring your own boat or rent one from the park. There is also a seasonal swimming area (that costs a small fee), and the park has camping, cabins, and a lodge for overnight stays. I’m hoping to test one of these out soon! Outside the park but still nearby, there is a mountain biking path, golf course, and hunting area. Whether you’re filling your time with activities or just hanging out on the lake, it’s a great place to visit!

Anna Jarvis House

The Anna Jarvis Birthplace Museum was one of my main destinations in the Grafton area. Anna Jarvis was born in 1864 and died in 1948. She is most famous as the founder of Mother’s Day, a holiday which she believed should give mothers a day off to recognize the hard work that they do in caring for their families. Anna’s own mother, Ann, was an important woman in her family and community and is credited as the inspiration for Anna’s crusade to create Mother’s Day. The holiday was first celebrated in 1908, three years after the death of Anna Jarvis’s mother. As the holiday became more widely celebrated and commercialized, however, Anna pulled away from her creation and even advocated for people to stop celebrating what she saw as a perversion of her original idea. She eventually died in a sanatorium and was buried with her mother and siblings.

The museum is a unique experience and an interesting thing to do if you are interested in learning about the Jarvis family. It is open Tuesday-Saturday, from 10am-2pm and costs $5 per person.

National Cemeteries

Grafton is home to the only National Cemetery in West Virginia – and it actually has two of them! The one pictures above is the older National Cemetery, which includes graves dating back to the Civil War. As it filled up in the 20th century, a new National Cemetery was opened nearby. While visiting a cemetery (or two) on a fun day trip might seem a little strange, it is interesting from the history perspective. They’re also very convenient to the rest of Grafton, so if you want to appreciate a bit of local military history, you can stop by and take a walk or just read the interpretive signs. At the very least, you can take a nice walk!

And if you’re a real history nerd, you can make your way to Bluemont Cemetery, which has graves dating to the Revolutionary War but was also heavily influenced by the Park Cemetery movement of the 1800s (an interesting article about the movement). It’s an incredibly scenic place to visit if you’re looking for something a little off the beaten path. I also loved the views of Grafton and the mountains from this area.

Where to Eat

Little local spots tend to be my favorite places to eat, and Grafton does not disappoint. Two of its classics are Biggie’ Restaurant and Summers Dairy King, which are located almost right next to each other on Pike Street. Biggie’s is a drive-in with a diner-style selection on its menu. Grab a burger and fries or a West Virginia hot dog here then head down the road to Summers Dairy King for an ice cream cone or malt! I stop at Summers Dairy King just about every time I’m in Grafton, especially in the summer when its nice to sip a milkshake and go for a drive.

The Tygart Lake Lodge also has a decent restaurant, where I’ve enjoyed both breakfast and dinner. Although the food is good, the real appeal of a meal here is the lakeside views and proximity to the rest of the park. I love sitting on their porch while a breeze comes off the lake in the evening!

Last but definitely not least is the restaurant I personally visit the most often in Grafton: Leonard’s Grill. They have a lot on their menu, but for me, the go-to is a gooey, cheesy burger – particularly the burger with mac ‘n cheese on it! My thought every time I’m here is that it seems like a drunk person designed the menu, but also that that hypothetical drunk person was a genius!

Other Things to Do in Grafton

I mentioned in the history section the Tygart Dam, built by the WPA. You can actually visit this dam, and while I’ve been to the overlook, one thing I have yet to do is take a tour inside the dam! I’ve heard that it’s pretty cool, but it’s an activity I have yet to book.

You can also visit the International Mother’s Day Shrine, which is the Methodist Church where the first Mother’s Day service was held. It is, of course, decently crowded on Mother’s Day, but in the rest of the year, it’s mostly just a lovely church.

My last suggestion in Grafton is to take some time to just walk or drive around and explore this cool little town! I love seeing the historic buildings and watching trains go by, and just taking things easy.

Expanding Your Trip & Final Thoughts

If you’re looking to add-on to a trip to Grafton, you’re in a good area! Morgantown is a highlight, and I’ve written a weekend itinerary for it here. I also really recommend Grafton as a day-trip from Morgantown and have taken a few of my friends here when they visit me.

Also nearby, you can visit Fairmont with its two state parks – Valley Falls and Prickett’s Fort. Or stop by Philippi for another small town with great history (post about that coming soon!). You can also head about half an hour up the road to Arthurdale, WV to tour the museum there where I used to work!

Grafton is a town that I think is overlooked, even by people in this area. I personally love the relaxed feeling I get there, the delicious food, and spending time around Tygart Lake. I love visiting Grafton, and I hope this short guide inspires someone else to visit it too!